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29 March 2011

Iceland #1: First Impressions of Ísland

Upon arriving at the Keflavik International Airport (about an hour southwest of Reykjavik, the capital) at 6:30am, we made our sleepy way to the rental car counters. An arbitrary decision to choose Hertz resulted in a very expensive rental of an automatic car (I recommend you learn to drive manual before renting a car in another country). We headed out to the parking lot and wandered around for a while until we found the corresponding license plate. Our first impression was "wow! this is fancy/cool. woooo heated seats!". (This did not last long once we realized the ground clearance was very very low... more on that later.) It also managed to make itself look like a car commercial in every location we parked it. I'm not sure whether this was a function of the location or the car.  



In accordance with my favorite writing style (lists), these were our first impressions of Iceland!

Somehow everything in Iceland looks epic
.
It seemed like every landscape, waterfall, mountain, beach, and herd of horses we encountered was very visually dramatic. Maybe it was the stark contrast between the snow and black lava, or maybe it was the way the sun would shine at an angle through the ever present layer of clouds. I'm not a particularly good photographer, nor is my camera very fancy, but my ratio of exciting to boring pictures was much higher on this trip...

Iceland smells like sulfur
. We noticed this as soon as we left the airport. Now that I think about it, we must have gotten used to it because we stopped noticing it after about the first day. The hot water in Reykjavik smelled very strongly like sulfur though...

Anywhere outside Reykjavik feels very deserted
- at least in the winter time. Every once in a while we would pass a car driving by on the ring road (the road that goes all the way around the island), but it wasn't a common occurrence. For the first few days, when we were traveling along the southern coast, we actually had a hard time finding food. The only places that are open reliably in the winter are convenience stores on gas stations. This impression may have been exacerbated by the fact that we arrived at 6am on a Sunday, and everything was closed all day...

This is one of the few countries where we could pass as a natives. Although nearly everyone speaks English, we were almost always first greeted in Icelandic, after which an awkward look of confusion quickly converted the conversation to English. I guess I have to go to 65 degrees north - one parallel from the Arctic Circle - a place where people are incredibly pale and light-haired, to fit in.

It kind of looks like the moon (or Colorado in the winter time...). Big expanses of very level yet bumpy lava fields punctuated by nearly vertical cliffs down to the ocean and up to the mountains.

Traffic lights make sense! In addition to having a single yellow light as a warning to slow down for the upcoming red light, they use the yellow light when transitioning from red to green by having both red and yellow illuminated. This makes it so there isn't as much of a lag time from when one direction of traffic stops and the other starts.


On a similar transportation note, HUGE tires (and studded tires) are very prevalent. These can be very helpful when getting around anywhere outside Reykjavik in the winter. More on that later... 

The yogurt is amazing. I was recently informed that Icelandic yogurt is the next yogurt rage after Greek yogurt, and I'm in full support. The brand that's popular there is Skyr. Yum!!


The dried fish is not so amazing. Found in any convenience store, these bags of fishy smelling strips of haddock make you feel like you're chewing on leather that tastes like rotten sardines. We had to be really hungry to try these.


This last impression wasn't really a "first impression." It was more of a conclusion that we came to with some other travelers in our hostel. Iceland does an amazing job of screening the photos you find online so that you manage to (wrongfully) convince yourself that it never snows there. There is snow in Iceland for most of the year! Don't let your Google image search for Iceland convince you otherwise...

13 March 2011

It's time for some new adventures...

It's been a while. I've been a terrible blogger. It's been a very strange couple months -- maybe it's because I haven't been doing the outdoorsy things that I love nearly enough! But I'm hoping to be back in full force for a while, at least until my master's project takes over my life in April.

I'm happy to be back with news of some upcoming adventures. In the works is a 5 week summer roadtrip with Marika, my best friend from high school. I am ridiculously excited to finally get to explore the middle of this country! I'll post more details about the route/plans soon.

The adventure that currently has my full attention is...

Iceland!

Yep, my trip to Nepal revived/reminded me of my excitement and interest in traveling, so I spent some time searching for plane tickets to cool new places over spring break. Here's a really neat section of the kayak.com (the website that I usually use to buy my plane tickets... it's just a coincidence that it happens to be named the way it is!). This page lets you type in a starting airport and shows you the prices of all possible destinations with ticket prices. This led me to realize that Iceland was a very convenient 4 hour non-stop flight from Boston for only ~$450! After talking with a few people about their trips to Iceland and only hearing good things, I decided to buy a ticket.

I'll be heading over there in less than a week with Simon, a Boston friend from my New Hampshire internship last summer. We are currently discovering that traveling in Iceland in the off season will certainly be an adventure. The roads can be in terrible condition, making travel outside of Reykjavik a nightmare. We're hoping to venture out of the city during the first half of the week, and explore the city for the last few days. Hopefully this will give us enough of a time-cushion when we get stranded on a glacier somewhere.

Some items on the very tentative agenda include:
  • Lots of hiking/walking around
  • Checking out the cliffs/fjords on the coast
  • Finding a volcano (and hoping it doesn't explode and keep me from getting back to my graduate project...)
  • Seeing the northern lights (assuming the stars align... or something)
  • Visiting Gullfoss - a huge touristy waterfall! 
  • Geysers!
  • Visiting a geothermal power plant, because we're nerds like that. 
  • Visiting the famous Blue Lagoon for an afternoon
  • Museums in Reykjavik
  • Staying at farms around the country. They have a really neat program that lets tourists stay in farmhouses - all you need is your sleeping bag. I guess it's the Iceland version of a B&B?
  • Kayaking?????? Still looking into this option since I can't imagine I will be dragging all my kayak gear over there.
 Yay! More to come soon :)