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22 January 2011

Nepal #6: Call Break

How do you feel about the card game Spades? There's a game that's super popular in Nepal (even some of the villagers knew how to play) called Call Break. It's basically like Spades, but with a few modifications to make it a bit more luck-dependent. For one, players play individually rather than on teams. Second of all, if you can play higher on any given trick, you must (unless someone has trumped, or you have no higher trump). Basically, you have to try to win every trick rather than saving your good cards. Also, Nepalis deal and play in a counter clockwise fashion. This took a few turns of shuffling to get used to. They also allow you to play the trump before it has been broken, which I decided to veto because that's. just. not. cool!

(Look at that. Although my goal was to not make a list, I just ended up making one in the paragraph instead! It's hopeless. I will never be an eloquent writer.)


We played this almost every day during the home-stay and trek. It was great fun! Since it's only a 4 player game, we tended to partner up, making it even more fun! This first movie features Kusum & Mike, Ruby & Zac (the too-competitive ones), Ashwin (the one who always wins), and me & Karla.



This second one is from the time we played into the dark. I'm really just posting it because... well, it's amusing. That's all! We got a bit competitive at times...

21 January 2011

Nepal #5: Daal Bhaat. It's what you eat.

"Daal Bhaat power, 24 hours!" 

These wise words were coined (I believe) by Zac (Ji-dac) Edwards to express that Daal Bhaat is what you eat and what powers you every day in Nepal!

Daal = Lentils (usually split black gram and spicy)
Bhaat = Rice (always white)

 Porters serving Dhaal Bhaat on the 5th morning of the trek. Zac looks excited.

The meal schedule in Nepal looks something like this: wake up, morning chiya (tea with some cookies) around 7am, morning daal bhaat around 10am, afternoon caja (snack - something different and delicious every day) around 3pm, evening daal bhaat around 7pm, bed. All other parts of the day are planned relative to these meals.

Sometimes daal bhaat is fancied up with treats like tarkari (vegetables), chicken, dried buffalo, or achar (pickles - NOT of the cucumber type, thank god). For example, a rather complex/fancy Daal Bhaat with a rather low ratio of rice to everything else is pictured below:


More commonly you would receive a HEAPING (I mean heaping) plate of white rice with a small scoop of curried veggies and a bowl of spicy black lentils on the side. The ratios of carbs to veggies/protein were very different from what I'm used to in the US, so it definitely took my stomach some time to adjust... During the first couple days in the village it was a huge struggle to finish my plate (it's considered rude if you don't finish everything on your plate). We all agreed that by the end our stomachs had stretched to a deliciously dangerous size. We graduated from hopelessly trying to fight off that second/third/fourth helping of rice that so often came flying out of nowhere to watching it zoom in and land on our plate without the least bit of hand waving. It was quite magical.

A Short How-To: Daal Bhaat Eating!
Oh, another thing misleading about the above picture (taken in a restaurant), is the cutlery. Did I mention that we only ate with our hands in the village? And by 'hands' I mean our right hands exclusively. It's an art that we clumsily developed over the weeks. I recommend you try it - it's quite fun, and you get used to it rather quickly. A common novice would try to pinch the food from above, but this results in leaning back your head and trying to drop the rice in. This also results in serious embarrassment/soiling of clothes. A true hand-eater scoops in from the right with palm up. Then you spin your hand around so your fingers are facing your mouth. Once finger tips are close enough, use your thumb across your hand to push the rice into your mouth. Easy as that!

Stay tuned for posts with videos/explanations for how to make delicious Nepali foods like tarkari, roti (round fried bread), and chiya! 

20 January 2011

Nepal #4: The Animals of Nepal

I'm sitting cozily here with my 7-year-old cousin/goddaughter Emilia. We're looking through all my pictures (I managed to get them onto my Aunt's computer to do a big presentation to the family tonight!). Emilia was most excited about the animal pictures, so she wanted to help me write a post about Nepal animals. Here we go!

First on the list: monkeys! These little (and sometimes big) guys are always around at the Hindu and Bhuddist temple sites stealing oranges from roadside stands and snacks from the tourists.


Here is a picture of the only cat I saw in all three weeks. When DDT was sprayed all over the country many years ago very few cats survived. This one was super cute though!


Doggies are EVERYwhere in Nepal. They don't usually belong to anyone in particular, but the villagers still feed them on occasion. Karla managed to take pictures of almost all of them, which likely consumed at least one entire day of our trip! :)


This little critter didn't move once in the entire time that we did our home-stay. I can't say I'm disappointed about that... It was almost the size of my hand! However, I was consoled that the spiders in Nepal are not dangerous. Emilia is yelling at me because she doesn't think spiders should be in this post.


Goats are the most common animal in Manegau (the village where we stayed). They act and play just like puppies - it's adorable! For the last night in the village a goat was slaughtered and eaten... yum!


Sometimes they even ride around on the roofs of taxis!


Almost every family in the village has a water buffalo or two (I think that is the name of this animal). They are quite ornery, but I suppose I would be too if I was tied up in a shed all day. Strangely this guy was no longer there once we returned from the trek... The village slaughters a few every month and the meat is shared all around the village and dried since there are no freezers or fridges to save it in.


Chickens run around everywhere. Our ama (grandmother) herded them by making noises. Sometimes the chicks accidentally came running into our bedroom in the morning... they just go whereever they please!


Finally, these guys were being sold on the street for 100 rupees each (~ $2). So cute! This is Emilia's favorite.


We saw lots of birds, but those are a bit tricky to take pictures of. Here are some pigeons, although those tend to be rather universal...


Supposedly we also camped close to a snow leopard...

Nepal #3: Some Immediately Apparent Cultural Differences

I promise the next post will not be another list. It's just that I won't have photos/videos until the weekend so I don't want to start telling stories yet!

Anyways, there are a number of things that you notice quite soon after arrival in Nepal. These are the ones that were most apparent to me:

Sometimes there is power, sometimes there is not, and no one seems to notice.
This is mainly true in Kathmandu where the amount of power available at any given time is not nearly enough to supply the entire city. In the village there were also power outages, but these were less frequent and less important since very few things rely on power. There are scheduled outages in Kathmandu which are published in the newspaper. It's different every day, but in general there is power for about 12 hours per day. Half the city gets power at a time. The majority of the power comes from hydroelectricity, which is much less available in the dry season (now) than in the monsoon season (June/July). In all the time we were there it only rained once. Additionally, the city has seen a huge increase in population over the past 20 years. An American who has been living there said that the population grew from 1.5 to 4 million, and the infrastructure has not grown anywhere near that same rate.

Most businesses have generators that turn on when the power turns off, but these are usually only used to power a minimal number of light bulbs. For example, you can't buy any steamed beverages during outages, but you can certainly still get tea! There was something comforting in the fact that no one seemed to mind the power going out, even at night. Just strike a match, light the nearest candle, and carry on.

There are few chairs, but it is not acceptable to sit on the ground.
This was mostly true in the village (there were chairs in the guest house in Kathmandu and we generally stood during the trek). What is the solution for this contradiction? Pull up a mat! There were countless times when I would sit down on the floor in my host family's living room and my Ama (grandmother) would come out of nowhere with a little round woven mat saying basnuus, basnuus! (sit down!). In general people sit on woven mats, little wooden boards, cushions, and these fun, rungi-chungi (colorful) chairs made of bamboo and old bike tires:


I really wanted to bring one home with me, but it wouldn't really have fit in my little suitcase...

Don't even think about wearing those shoes inside!
This one was the most difficult to remember. Both the guest house in Kathmandu and the houses in the villages had certain rooms where shoes were allowed and others where they were unacceptable. In our village house, for example, it was okay to wear shoes in the kitchen/cooking area but not in the room where we slept. It was okay, however, to run around outside in barefeet and then just walk inside... this was somewhat perplexing!

Another thing to consider is what you do with your feet. In general, feet are considered juto (roughly, dirty). It's a good idea to avoid pointing with your feet and stepping over people/things. Also, your feet should never be higher than your head (or anyone else's). For example, when people meet the Dalai Lama they bow down until their heads are touching the ground to demonstrate that they consider their head to be dirtier than his feet.

When in doubt, use the right one.
This refers to using your hands. Toilets in Nepal (and India and many other countries in the east) are often a ceramic hole in the ground flushed by pouring in a bucket of water from a nearby spout. The left hand is usually used in the place of toilet paper, ideally followed by a good washing with soap and water. For this reason, people generally avoid using their left hand for anything else if possible. My friend Alberto and I counted the number of people we saw with their arms around each other during the trip and we found that the number of right-arms greatly outnumbered left-arms over someone else's shoulder. Over all, if you are giving/recieving something or eating you should use your right hand.

What if you are left handed? Karla and I asked Kusum (Nepali student that stayed in our home-stay with us) that question after we noticed that our 7-year-old host-sister was writing with her left hand. She said it's okay to be left-handed in Nepal - you just use your left hand for everything instead of the right one.

Hmmmm that's all for now, I suppose!

19 January 2011

Nepal #2: 22 Useful Nepali Words

... and phrases I suppose. Why 22? A few reasons... That's how many days I spent in Nepal, and I'm pretty sure my brain was only capable of learning approximately 1 word per day. Also, the objective is not to write a Nepali dictionary - only to give you a glimpse of the words and phrases I used most often in Kathmandu, the village, and the trek.

First, a few notes:
  • Tamang is the language of the village that we home-stayed in (most people also spoke Nepali), so I also added the Tamang version of many words. There are 100+ languages spoken in Nepal, and each region usually speaks its own, in addition to some Nepali. Tamang is spoken by about 5% of the population of Nepal.
  • Nepali is a script language, so when you write the words in Roman letters the main objective is to spell it phonetically. My general impression is that as long as you can pronounce the word properly from looking at the spelled version it isn't super important how you spelled it. However, I could be making this up so correct me if I'm wrong!

THE LIST (adopted from the language list provided to us by Katie Walker)!
  1. Namaste - Hello! Typically accompanied by a slight bow with palms together at your heart. 
  2. Mero naam Nena ho - My name is Nena.
  3. Saathi - Friend.
  4. Rungi-chungi - Colorful. This became an instant favorite because it's incredibly fun to say!
  5. Baph-re-baph! - Wow! See above for explanation. This expression was typically returned with giggles by the Nepalis...
  6. Tulo - Big. Tulo paisa (big money) became a common expression among the Americans... 
  7. Dhanyebhad - Thank you. Nepalis don't say thank you very often. It is just assumed/expected that people do things for each other (like serving food, helping with little things). They usually only use dhanyebhad for situations where they are truly giving appreciation/thanks for something. 
  8. Maph garnus - I'm sorry.
  9. Ramro - Good. This was definitely my most commonly used word - any time I didn't understand something and the person was looking at me expectantly I gave them ramro or even dae-raii ramro (very good), and it was usually received well... 
  10. Dude - Milk. Love this one.
  11. Volie (pronounced Bolie) - Tomorrow.
  12. Chini - Sugar.
  13. Tapaii lai kasto chha? - How are you?
  14. Malaii ___ lagyo. - I feel ____. Blank can be filled in by voke (hungry), thakaii (tired), khusi (happy), or many other words that I do not know!
  15. Bistare - Slowly. Almost every other word the Nepalis said to us as we were walking down the mountain. 
  16. Basnuus - Sit down. 
  17. Aunuus/Januus - Come/Go Away! 
  18. Pani/Khana - Water/Food.
  19. Subaratri - Goodnight. This one is just fun to say!
  20. Mitho (Tamang: Rungba) - Delicious. If you turned down that extra heaping plate of food they wanted you to eat, you pretty much had to repeat these words 10 times to prevent them from thinking you thought it was not good. 
  21. Chick chick - A little bit. I'm pretty sure this is a Tamang word, but it was used very often in the village during meal times! More on that in the meal post.
  22. Pugyo (Tamang: Yoji) - Enough. Follow this with word #20 multiple times.
Well, that's 22. I guess I could have kept going until 30 or maybe even 40, but I'd say that's enough for now. 

One more thing: Counting to ten!
  1. Ek (pronounced ihk)
  2. Dui
  3. Tin (pronounced teen)
  4. Char
  5. Pach
  6. Chha
  7. Sat (pronounced saaht)
  8. Ath (don't pronounce the H)
  9. Nau (pronounced now)
  10. Das
And, last but not least, I learned how to write my name in Nepali!

Nepal #1: I made it back alive!

Where should I start? Over the past three-week adventure I've been saturated with facts, stories, anecdotes, and Nepal-specific peculiarities. My goal is to regurgitate them in some type of interesting and useful form that helps me remember as much as possible.

As I sit at this computer (in Belgium, with fast internet connection, at a desk, on a chair, showered, with a toasty basket of machine-washed laundry waiting, belly full of non-rice food items, slightly buzzed after sharing a Stella with my grandmother), I've created the following list of topics that I plan to cover in future blog posts. This should make me feel obligated to write, right?

Nepal in General
  • Top 20? most useful Nepali words!
  • 5 Immediately apparent Nepali quirks 
  • Call Break
  • Types of roti
  • Three geographic regions
  • Water management in Nepal
  • Brief history
  • The group journal! 

Kathmandu
  • How to cross the street in Kathmandu (and other scary things)
  • Bhuddist and Hindu sites (monkeys!)
  • Salwar kurta shopping
  • A visit to the Patan Hospital

Village Home-Stay (my favorite part of the trip)
  • Introduction to my host family
  • Dal Bhat (Lentils and Rice). How could this be so interesting? Just wait!
  • Recipe: How to make chiya (delicious Nepali tea)
  • Recipe: How to make tarkari
  • Hmm... I'm a woman and I need to 'shower'... 
  • A visit to the blacksmith
  • Husking rice the human-powered way
  • Making leaf plates
  • Working in the village store
  • Bhutan refugee info
  • Shamanic ceremony

Trekking
  • Route map
  • A typical day on the trail
  • Incredible views along the way

Please let me know if you have any suggestions, preferences as to the order I post these, or if there's something I shouldn't bother writing about (whether or not you were on the trip!).

Virtually all of these posts will have pictures and/or videos (yay!). Unfortunately these must wait until I return to Boston in a few days...

16 December 2010

Packing for Nepal

Today I finally had motivation to jam everything in my pack for Nepal. Before doing so, I took a picture of all the stuff I'm dragging to the other side of the world!


Lots of layers! I had a bit of a hard time packing since the temperatures in Nepal vary quite a bit in the winter. Here's a description of the weather we're expecting: "The weather is cool and the sky is clear with occasional snowfalls at higher elevations. This season is good for trekking in lower elevations. The morning and night is cold and the days are warm when sunny." Temperatures range from lows in the 20s to highs in the 70s (F). That's a pretty huge range!

3 days until Belgium and 13 days before I arrive in Kathmandu!

XC Skiing at Bear Swamp

Snow is hard to find around Ithaca this year, so a bunch of us decided to go searching for some powder elsewhere! We had a lovely day of cross country skiing at Bear Swamp State Forest, just southwest of Skaneateles Lake. Here's a map of the trails! The crew included Rob, Ben, Sarah, Emily, Rick (Emily's dad), and me. We departed from COE a little after 10am (after waiting for Ben to polish his rental skis...). The drive from Ithaca was approximately an hour.


About 5 minutes into the trip it was clear that I am by far the slowest XC skier ever. It probably didn't help that I went with a bunch of experts... The moments between falling on my face were quite enjoyable!


Most of the trails were really nice and fluffy with snow, but towards the end the trail followed a creek which was not frozen. This resulted in some very ice-laden skis which made it feel like we were snow-shoeing instead of skiing.


On the ride home we chatted and munched on some chocolate bars that Rob brought - yum! Also, this was my last day of adventures with Emily before she graduates and moves back to Colorado! I'm gonna miss this girl! Hopefully I'll have some Colorado posts in the near future...



28 November 2010

Return to the Whites: Mt. Avalon, Mt. Field, and Mt. Tom

What I learned this weekend: There is no better way to combat a tryptophan-induced post-Thanksgiving food coma than to hike a snowy mountain in a blizzard.


After a few delicious days of feasting and indulgence, I was anxious to get back to the mountains, and especially to see the Whites covered in white! Simon and Jon picked me and Emily up at 7am in Boston (we brought our pillows for the back seat). We made a quick stop in Manchester (ahhh to be reunited with Deka!) to meet up with NH locals and we were well on our way north to the White Mountains. We arrived at the trail-head near the Crawford Notch Visitor Center around 10:30am. The trees and ground were dusted with snow, and there were a couple fluffy inches on the ground.

There were ten of us in total as we embarked on our 7.3 mile hike. I was a bit nervous about trying my new hiking boots (purchased for my Nepal trip in a month), but coupled with Simon's liner socks they worked really well! The first leg of the trip was about 1.25 miles, after which we reached a fork in the trail and decided to go left and climb Mt. Field first.


Along the way to Mt. Field we summited Mt. Avalon, which afforded the nicest views along the entire loop. We could see the Presidential range enshrouded in clouds in the distance.



The top of Mt. Field was a bit less exciting since it was mainly just a cairn in the middle of the woods. There was a bit of a view off to the side, but by then the clouds were thicker and it was beginning to snow. Dan managed to act as a bird feeder by holding some trail mix up in the air!


We headed over to the spur to Mt. Tom, where most of the group hiked up to check out the peak. On the way over a blizzard swept through and we all soon sported a pair of frozen, snow-covered eye lashes. The storm stopped about 15 minutes later, and we were pleasantly surprised by a beautiful sunset through the snow-covered evergreens.


Post-hike we headed to Moat (delicious restaurant in North Conway) for dinner and stopped at one of the gear consignment stores where some people found treasures!

I think I could fall in love with winter hiking...

21 November 2010

Nepal!

For the months of December and January my blog will temporarily be dedicated to a non-kayaking subject: Nepal! On December 27th, after spending a week in Belgium visiting family, I'll be boarding a plane for Kathmandu, Nepal (with a 7 hour stop in Abu Dhabi first!). I'll meet up with the other Cornell students and we'll spend a few days exploring the city while staying at the Cornell-Nepal Study Program housing.

On New Year's Eve we'll be on an all-day bus ride to Mhanegang, a little village in the mountains, northwest of Kathmandu. We'll spend a few days living in the village and learning about the Nepali farming lifestyle. On January 4th we'll depart for a 10-day trek through the mountains (along the Phyukhri Ridge) from which we'll have views of the Himalayas (the Annapurnas to Gosainkund).

Once we get back from our trek, we'll do the whole process backwards!
Stay posted for more info!